If you’ve watched David Simon’s Treme, then you’ll already have a pretty good idea of what New Orleans is like – we’ve never seen a show get a city so right
NOLA is a city built on music, history, and soul food. It’s a little rough around the edges – think Camden Town with more saxophones and shrimp gumbo – but it’s got a charm that’s all its own. From the legendary Jazz Fest to 9am frozen cocktails served from towering slushie machines, New Orleans serves up culture, rhythm, and revelry in equal measure. Whether you’re wandering through the French Quarter’s historic streets looking for your next Sazerac, dancing to a brass band in a dive bar, enjoying an award-winning cocktail in one of the many globally renowned bars, or soaking it all up with fried seafood po’boys, there’s no place like it. Here’s how we filled six nights in The Big Easy…
Emeril’s
Emeril’s was opened in 1990 by celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse, a local legend known not just for redefining Creole cuisine and his television presence, but also for his generous support of worthy causes. Now helmed by his 21-year-old son (yes, 21 – wild!), the restaurant continues to deliver inventive takes on classic dishes. Sure, there are Po’ Boys, Sno-Balls, oysters, and boudin, but there’s also a lavish dose of caviar, interesting wines, and a bounty of seasonal Louisiana produce worked into
the menu. Speaking of The Menu – the setting has a distinctly theatrical vibe. A massive window and dramatic lighting frame the kitchen, while tables and chairs are angled toward it, putting the entire culinary team on full display. It really feels like the kitchen is the stage, the chefs are the stars of the show, and you are all part of the play!
Commander’s Palace
Commander’s Palace is a New Orleans institution, tucked beneath the oaks and epic yards of the historic Garden District. Since 1893, this iconic turquoise-and-white Victorian restaurant has been a destination for both locals celebrating special occasions and visitors seeking a quintessential taste of the city. The menu celebrates seasonal ingredients and traditional Louisiana flavours – think turtle soup, pecan-crusted Gulf fish, bread pudding soufflé, and bananas Foster flambéed tableside. Throw in a generous dose of Southern hospitality, and you’ve got a classic dining experience. If you’re in town on a Thursday or Friday, be sure to check out the legendary martini lunch, where martinis are just 25 cents with the purchase of an entrée.
Domilise’s Po-Boys
Domilise’s Po-Boys is a beloved neighbourhood institution, tucked away in Uptown New Orleans. This no-frills spot has been serving up some of the city’s most iconic sandwiches since the 1920s. The bread might not be the best, but the deep-fried shrimp and oyster sandwiches – loaded with sauces, lettuce, tomatoes, and pickles – make for a great hangover buster.
Turkey and the Wolf
Turkey and the Wolf is a wildly inventive sandwich shop serving up a small menu of loaded, over-the-top creations. Our favourite was the signature Collard Green Melt, which has been on the menu since they opened – a perfect mix of bitter greens, cheese, coleslaw and spicy mayo on toasted rye. The team now has a few spin-off spots around town, all well worth seeking out.
Napoleon House
Napoleon House, nestled in the heart of the French Quarter, is a New Orleans landmark steeped in history and old-world charm. Originally offered as a refuge for Napoleon Bonaparte (though he never arrived), this 200-year-old building now serves up classic Creole fare and famously refreshing Pimm’s Cups in a timeworn, atmospheric setting. We suggest skipping the food and opting for a seat at the bar with a Sazerac instead. It’s open late too, which is handing if you’re coming off a late flight.
Central Grocery + Delli
Central Grocery & Deli in the French Quarter is the birthplace of the legendary muffuletta sandwich – a must-try for any food lover visiting New Orleans. This old-school Italian-American grocery, with its shelves stacked high with imported goods, has been serving its signature sandwich since 1906. Packed with layers of cured meats, provolone cheese, and olive salad on sesame bread, the muffuletta is a monster. One is more than enough to share, and you’ll want to load up on some hot sauce for a much-needed acidic hit.
Lil’ Dizzy’s
Lil’ Dizzy’s, in the historic Tremé neighbourhood, is a beloved soul food spot known for its warm hospitality and hearty, home-style cooking. The family-run diner serves up classics like fried chicken, gumbo, red beans and rice, and buttery mac and cheese with daily changing specials. With its no-nonsense charm and deep roots in the community, Lil’ Dizzy’s offers a genuine taste of the city’s rich Creole and African American culinary heritage. For us, the highlight was the catfish Po’ Boy – one of the best we ate in the city.
Loretta’s Authentic Pralines
Loretta’s Authentic Pralines showcases the best of New Orleans’ Creole treats and, in our humble opinion, serves the best beignets in town because they stuff ’em. Start with two of the crab beignets, served with a tangy remoulade dipping sauce (they’re small, and you’ll regret not getting two), then finish with the super-sweet, praline-stuffed beignet.
Bacchanal Fine Wine & Spirits
Take a walk by the river to the Bywater neighbourhood, where you’ll find Bacchanal Fine Wine & Spirits – a wine shop turned-backyard party where live jazz, small plates (including a build your own cheeseboard), and a stellar bottle list come together under the stars. Guests select a bottle from the shop, grab an ice bucket and glasses, and settle into mismatched patio furniture in the courtyard. Upstairs, a semi-secret bar offers craft cocktails (with a great happy hour). With nightly live music and a laid-back vibe, Bacchanal is a welcome respite from the bars in the French Quarter.
Pêche
Pêche is a seafood spot that offers a more modern dining experience. It’s part of the Donald Link Group, known for acclaimed New Orleans restaurants like Herbsaint, Cochon, and Butcher, which celebrate Southern and Cajun flavours with a contemporary twist. Standout dishes included the tuna toast, spicy ground shrimp over noodles, and the beautifully dressed raw fish selections from the raw bar. They pack in the covers, which can make service feel a bit chaotic – but luckily, the food
more than makes up for it.
Fives
Fives is a cute oyster and raw bar right on Jackson Square in the French Quarter. Grab a seat at the horseshoe-shaped bar and work your way through the long list of strong cocktails – there are no fewer than five martinis, so you’d be a fool not to start there – paired with an all killer, no filler menu of excellent bar bites. Local oysters, a very good steak tartare, and a gem salad hit the spot. It’s run by Sandstone, the folks behind one of our favourite hotels, Saint Vincent.
Lagniappe Bakehouse
Lagniappe Bakehouse, recommended by everyone we spoke to, is known for its creative pastries that blend Southern and West African flavours. Founded by pastry chef Kaitlin Guerin, it offers standout treats like the “Vaucroissant” and spiced Swedish buns, using locally sourced ingredients. It was named one of the best bakeries in the U.S. by The New York Times, which means you’ve got to get there early or risk missing out.
Café du Monde
Café du Monde, established in 1862 in New Orleans’ French Market, is an iconic 24-hour coffee stand renowned for its beignets and café au lait. The beignets are square puffs of dough, deep-fried and dusted with powdered sugar, served in orders of three. The café’s café au lait blends dark-roasted coffee with French chicory, a practice dating back to the Civil War era when coffee was scarce. This unique combination imparts a rich, slightly bitter flavour to the coffee. The menu has remained largely unchanged over the years, and the café is now a beloved cultural landmark.
Cure
Cure, located in New Orleans’ Freret Street neighbourhood, has been credited with pioneering the craft cocktail movement in the city since its opening in 2009. Housed in a historic 1903 firehouse, it blends classic and innovative drinks – earning it numerous awards and spots on all the lists. Signature cocktails include the Gunshop Fizz, a bitters-forward highball, and the Sazerac, crafted with exactly 23 drops of Peychaud’s bitters. Cure’s menu evolves seasonally, featuring both timeless classics and inventive originals, served alongside some mega, trend-forward bar snacks.
Junebug
Junebug occupies the former Jazz City Studio, where funk legends like The Meters and Allen Toussaint recorded in the 1970s. On one side, there’s a sit-down restaurant vibe with French-inspired dishes; on the other, a sprawling bar serving cocktails in two strengths. In true New Orleans fashion, there are a couple of frozen options – including a refreshing Ramos Gin Fizz slushie that goes down a little too easy. The space features an impressive sound system and a curated vinyl collection of nearly 500 funk and soul records, paying homage to the building’s musical legacy. Oh, and they serve the full menu, food and booze, right up until midnight.
Salon, Salon
This sexy, dimly lit, plush bar is tucked inside the historic building that houses the Maison Métier hotel – formerly the library of an old law office. The food menu features fun takes on classic French-Southern dishes, such as marinated crab claws, salty fried bread served with a honey butter, and fried potatoes loaded with beef tartare. Live music sets the mood twice a week (this is New Orleans), and alongside creative cocktails, you’ll find a curated selection of natural wines – which are surprisingly hard to find in the city.
Looking for somewhere to stay? Our two favourite hotels were Hotel Saint Vincent and Maison Métier. Be sure to visit for Jazz Fest or Mardi Gras too for a full taste of New Orleans culture.
