The restaurant formerly known as Counter 71 has been flipped
The restaurant flip is the trend reshaping London’s dining scene right now. Spots that opened with one identity are shedding it and starting again, with new names, new chefs and new stories. Counter 71 on Nile Street is the latest one of these flips. The tasting menu format is gone and in its place is Appalachia, named after the mountainous region of the eastern US and inspired by its southern country cooking.
What hasn’t changed is the room. The same intimate counter runs along the kitchen, with 16 seats putting you right in the action. It’s one of those setups where the kitchen is the entertainment, and the cooks know it. Everything has a quiet confidence to it, from the pacing of the service to the way dishes arrive looking intentional rather than fussy.
Eat This
Head chef Alistair Borer, who put time in at Smoking Goat before this, brings his live-fire experience to food that’s already bold, like the cultured apple butter with warm Hillbilly loaf, and addictive smoked cheddar jalapeño cornbread madeleines with ranch dressing. Are we in the middle of a savoury madeleine moment? With cornbread ones also on the No. Forty Nine menu, we’re saying yes.
The beef tartare tostada was the standout; rich, spicy, and with lots of texture. The butter-brained half chicken with miso grits is a decent plate. And then there’s the peach and rhubarb cobbler with milk ice cream, which you’ll definitely want to order. Ask nicely about the off-menu burger too.
Drink This
Wine is overseen by sommelier Harry Cooper, who keeps the list tight, rotating regularly around small producers. The English sparkling by the glass is a solid opener and the Tenuta Terre Nobili 2021, a Calabrian red from Lidia Matera’s organic estate had a freshness that worked well with the food. Cocktails come from downstairs bar Lowcountry downstairs and are pretty fun, like the Banana Pudding Sazerac made with brown butter-washed rye, vanilla rum and banana liqueur.
Why Go
The counter format makes a meal here feel like an occasion without being overly formal. Borer’s cooking is excellent, the food has genuine personality, and the room has warmth. Appalachia might not roll off the tongue but there’s plenty to get your teeth into.
Useful Infomation
Address | 71 Nile Street, London N1 7RD
Website | appalachia.co.uk
