Most people visit the Dolomites in winter, when snow-capped peaks offer the perfect conditions for skiing
But during summer, the mountains transform into something truly spectacular, with turquoise blue lakes and luscious green mountains – the only snow sitting like bobble hats on the highest jagged spikes. Most photos of the Dolomites look too good to be true, so, this summer, we decided to take a trip there ourselves and see if it really is as beautiful as it looks (Spoiler alert: it is).
We began in Bolzano, known as the ‘window to the Dolomites’. About a two-hour drive from Milan, it’s easy to reach by either bus, car, or even train. As we spiralled our way up the mountain side, we quickly left behind the bustling city of Bolzano and found ourselves among rows and rows of vines – this famous wine region is known as Alto Adige – until we finally levelled out in a town called Ritten, about 1,200m above sea level.
The architecture is typical Swiss Alpine style, with large wooden triangular-fronted chalets. Ritten is quite small really, with just a few restaurants, a butcher and supermarket but Bolzano is just a drive or cable car away if you need anything from the main town.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Parkhotel Holzner, a rather luxurious 4-star hotel in the centre of Ritten. Built in 1908, the family-run hotel has been welcoming guests for almost 120 years. The hotel seamlessly blends contemporary craftsmanship with thoughtful, modern additions, one of which is a big focus on sustainability. Built with nature in mind, this isn’t a hotel that wants to stand out, it tries its hardest to blend in with the beauty of the UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site.
Nestled in the hillside, it’s built in such a way that you wouldn’t realise it has 53 rooms, two pools (inside and outside), a spa area, restaurant, bar, and games room, or that it’s all powered by the hotel’s organic heating plant! We stayed in a Junior Suite, our balcony offering sweeping views of the Dolomites. It was simple and clean, with two beds, a small but neat bathroom, lounge/study area, and outside space.
The Liberty Spa was the true standout of the hotel, which had both panoramic and Finnish saunas, and a room to practice ‘hamam’, a traditional Middle Eastern bathhouse ritual involving steam rooms, full body exfoliation, and clay masks. We weren’t totally sure what we were doing but it was fun to try something new – and our skin certainly felt smoother!
We ate breakfast and dinner at the hotel, heading to local restaurants or grabbing a sandwich from the butchers/deli for lunch. Each meal was a feast with multiple courses and an accompanying buffet, and we particularly enjoyed how they mixed traditional elements with modern influences. Ladin culture (a mix of Italian and Austrian) is strong up in the northernmost part of Italy and this is reflected in dishes like Canederli/Bales (a savoury dumpling), Panicia (a hearty soup made with barley and speck) and Kaiserschmarrn (light and fluffy mini pancake chunks) – exactly the kind of food you need to fuel a hike.
There are plenty of places to stay in the Dolomites, from hotels and AirBnBs to camping spots and refugios deep in the mountains, but we preferred something a little more…opulent.
Where to Hike
Stunning hiking trails and even vineyards can be found straight from the hotel’s doorstep. From short circular routes and charming valley walks to historic sights and breathtaking views, there’s something for every level.
Rather than driving the car everywhere, we used a local transportation pass, provided by the hotel. This grants access to the gondola to Bolzano and Ritten train and buses, which takes you to local towns, opening up more beautiful trails. If you prefer to hike with a guide, the hotel also offers guided tours.
We couldn’t leave without spending an afternoon in the vineyards of this lush and green high altitude region. While a lot of the white grapes are similar to those found in Germany or France, many of the red grapes were native to the area. We stumbled across family-run winery Max Thurner, a boutique vineyard run by mother and son. We were welcomed into their home for an intimate tasting and it’s safe to say we left with a few bottles in tow.
For those after a long, multi-day hike, check out routes like Alta Via 1 and 2. These are long distance trails that cut right through the Dolomites, starting (or finishing) close to Bolzano. Ranging from 120km to 170km, these are difficult routes but incredibly rewarding, the views capturing the full charm of the Dolomites.
Where to Visit
While Bolzano is a lovely introduction to the Dolomites, you’re only just scratching the surface if you stay here. We recommend taking a bus or hiring a car and driving into the heart of the region, where the main tourist towns include Cortina d’Ampezzo, Auronzo, San Martino di Castrozza, Ortisei, and Belluno. Cortina D’Ampezzo is one of the busiest towns but it really does offer some wonderful sites.
It’s famous for three incredible rock formations called Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cinque Torri and Croda da Lago. It’s also home to the lakes of Lago di Sorapis and Lago di Misurina – this is where all those photos we’d seen became real life.
The valley of Val Gardena is home to the Alpe di Siusi – the largest high-elevation Alpine meadow in Europe – and mountain peaks of Seceda peaks, Sella Massif, Gran Cir, and Passo Gardena. You’ll find more stunning lakes in Alta Pusteria and popular hiking spots of Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Kronplatz.
We were truly blown away by the untouched beauty of the Dolomites and we’re already planning our trip back to tackle Alta Via 1.
