Chef Mark Jarvis and sommelier Xavier Rousset have already teamed up to re-open The Gunmakers pub in Marylebone and now the pair have partnered up once again as Jarvis’ Farringdon restaurant Anglo has taken up residence at TRADE in Soho, a members’ club for hospitality industry professionals run by Rousset along with Gearoid Devaney.
With Anglo @ TRADE, the club is opening to non-members for the very first time, offering a limited number of tables as well as access to the Coravin cellar for wine tastings. It’s definitely worth trying to score one – not only is a great space (the tables set in the alcoves are particularly cool), the food is on point too.
Anthony Raffo (formerly of Texture, Pied a Terre and Auberge du Lac) is heading up the kitchen, which is turning out both an a la carte and a tasting menu. Anglo is known for the quality (and value) of the latter, so that’s what we went for. The opening snack of fermented cauliflower and chive veloute, which had a very distinct funk, and buckwheat crackers reminiscent of pork scratchings, set the tone for the rest of the meal – punchy flavours and plenty of textures.
Other highlights were a rich, earthy dish of venison with celeriac puree and crispy kale; a clever re-imagining of a cheese course served about two thirds of the way in, consisting of a raisin puree, topped with Tunworth cheese, a whipped cheese cream and puffed rice; and a dessert listed as ‘parsnip, hay, miso, smoke’, which turned up as ice cream covered in white and grey powder, and was smoky, sweet and savoury all at once.
The Anglo @ TRADE tasting menu is six courses for £55 (and £90 with wine pairing), which is actually great value for the quality of cooking on show, so make the most of the residency whilst you can.
23 Frith Street, London W1D 4RR
tradesoho.co.uk