loti eats: the game bird

The Game Bird is a brand new opening at The Stafford, a central London five star hotel that is anything but new itself, having opened way back in 1912. Tucked down a quiet side street by Green Park, it feels like a slice of proper old London, with beautiful stately houses and a fare smattering of blue plaques including one for Winston Churchill’s house.

Despite being new itself, The Game Bird is very traditional in its style and certain dishes are served table side from a trolley; we’ll admit that this fact was a big reason for drawing us down there! We decided to go for the Sunday lunch menu but the a la carte had plenty of tempting options, from roast pigeon to a section of pies such as steak and ale steamed suet pudding.

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We kicked off with the smoked salmon, carved at the table from the trolley and served with an array of garnishes you can choose plus some of the best freshly baked soda bread we’ve ever had. We also tried the Smoked Norfolk Black chicken with Clarence Court egg, bacon jam and pickled mushrooms which was an absolute winner. Then it was time for thin slices of roast beef served with Yorkshire pud, carrots, parsnips, roasties, red cabbage and a cracking gravy – all excellent. We finished off with a beautiful tart tatin to share, served with cinnamon ice cream.

On the evidence of the Sunday Lunch, The Game Bird is showing a lot of promise – we’re already plotting a return to try the dinner menu.

16-18 St James’s Place, London SW1A 1NJ
thestaffordlondon.com